Tanning products have come of age, as companies like Clarins Group, Kao Brands Co. and Procter & Gamble Co. have launched formulas in recent years.
Image by Getty Images via @daylifeThe products still contain dihydroxyacetone, or DHA, a color additive that reacts with amino acids on the skin's surface to darken the skin. But skin-care companies say the latest self-tanners have overcome two product flaws: a strong chemical smell, both during and after application, and runny, messy solutions that made it hard to get an even tan.
"We did some customer research, and there were a few things people weren't happy with," says Michelle Feeney, chief executive of PZ Cussons, a London-based packaged-goods marketer that owns the St. Tropez brand. The company came out with what it calls Aromaguard technology two years ago that has a fragrant smell as opposed to the strong chemical odor associated with self-tanners of the past.
U.S. sales of the St. Tropez brand have increased 70% in the past year, the company says, with much of the growth coming from consumers who are primarily affluent women ages 24 to 44.
St. Tropez has also launched products for those who want a tan look without the commitment. This year it came out with the Wash Off Dark Instant Glow body lotion and spray, priced at $18 and $23 respectively. The company says the new products provide consumers with the option of an immediate bronze look that can be taken off with soap and warm water.
Sales of sunless tanners have grown in the past year. Self-tanning products sales in department stores were up 13% in the 12 months ended in May, to $26.5 million, according to NPD Group, a Port Washington, N.Y., market-research company.
"The consumer is understanding that being in the sun is not always good for you," says Karen Grant, NPD vice president and beauty-industry analyst. "But at the same time having a beautiful glow is still something that's desired."
Katy Quinton, a 27-year-old real estate agent in Houston, started using self-tanning products five or six years ago after her dermatologist advised her to stop using a tanning bed. She has tried everything from Jergens to TanTowel, a towelette that contains self-tanning formula. Lately she has been using Almost the Real Thing Self-Tanning Gel, a product available for $12.95 on Beautypedia.com.
"You can put it on your face and the smell isn't as bad," Ms. Quinton says. For special events, she gets an airbrush treatment from a technician at Nordstrom for about $45.
"Any of these ways I feel like are better than going out and laying out in the sun or going to a tanning bed," she says.
Many products come in lighter or darker tan shades. Some contain erythrulose, a sugar derivative that, when combined with DHA, can result in a range of tones that look more natural.
Products also combine self-tanning solutions with other elements of skin care, such as moisturizing and anti-aging ingredients, as well as SPF for sun protection.
In March, Clarins Group, a brand sold in department stores and specialty stores, launched its Instant Smooth Self Tanner, which it calls "a hybrid of skin care and self tanner." The product combines the skin-care ingredients of its Instant Smooth line, such as Acacia Micro-Pearls that the company says help fill in fine lines and wrinkles, with DHA and erythrulose. The product is priced at $33.
Retailer Sephora has expanded its offerings in the past year. "It's really been this year that we've really started to focus on it," says Allison Slater, vice president of retail marketing at Sephora. Recent products include Dr. Dennis Gross's Alpha Beta Glow Pads, which contain anti-aging and exfoliating ingredients, priced at $32 for a pack of 20, and Kate Somerville Tanning Towelettes, which are priced at $48 for eight.
But consumers can still misapply a self-tanner, resulting in a look that screams fake-bake.
"What people don't realize is that they really need to exfoliate before they put it on to get all the dead skin cells off," says Jenna Menard, global color artist at Clinique. "It'll help get an even tan." She recommends paying extra attention to the ankle areas, where people generally forget to rub in the tanner. "You need to make sure you're giving yourself the sun tan that's believable," she says.
Some products promise to take users from ghostly white to tanned goddess in a few hours. But products with lower levels of DHA, which tan the skin gradually, have been hits for big packaged goods makers like Kao Brands Co. and P&G.
A foaming daily moisturizer, which Kao launched in 2009 under its Jergens Natural Glow line ($9), delivers natural-looking color in a light, fast-drying formula with minimal odor, the company says. P&G offers an Olay Total Effects Touch of Sun Moisturizer with anti-aging ingredients like beta hydroxy.
Salon-tanning brand Sunless Inc. recently launched its Evolv heated airbrush application system, which a technician applies, for a recommended $50 to $75. Ricky Croft, vice president of marketing at Sunless, says the heat "makes the skin more supple and more receptive to the delivery of DHA."
The company introduced Mystic HD, its first heated automated system, a year ago. In addition to providing skin benefits, the heat dries the spray as it's applied, so consumers don't have to wait to put their clothing on afterward.
The Food and Drug Administration has approved the external application of products containing DHA. But the agency recommends lotions over spray tanners because there is a lower risk the product will be exposed to the eyes and lips or be inhaled, says spokeswoman Stephanie Yao.
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